Like so much of modern fashion, overcoats and trench coats originate in a different era where their utility was rooted in the culture of the time. As time has passed, the cultural drift has impacted the styling of these staple wardrobe items.
Modern versions are like a derivative of the original versions. They bear a resemblance to their metaphorical grandparents, but there are many differences as well.
The Overcoat
The overcoat got its name simply because it is worn over your clothing. Specifically, over a suit jacket.
The overcoat dates to an era before travel by car-dominated modern life. People were much more likely to be out in bad weather on foot or horseback or in an open carriage so an overcoat was (and still is) a necessity to keep warm.
So you needed a heavy coat that genuinely protected you from harsh weather for extended periods of time. Additionally, it needed to protect the clothing you were wearing so you would remain presentable for work.
Social environments were much more formal back then and they didn't have the easy "wash and wear" synthetic blend fabrics so common today. This had a huge impact on how clothing was worn produced.
So, overcoats not only had to be roomy enough to wear over a suit, but they were often ankle length. This allowed them to keep the entire outfit protected and presentable so that once you arrived at your destination, your suit was still in good shape.
For this reason, overcoats were typically a very heavy 30 ounces in weight. This allowed them to endure cold, wind and snow while keeping the wearer toasty warm.
As the quality and make of fabrics changed, so did the overcoats. Modernized overcoats can typically be much lighter in weight (usually around 15 - 20 oz) and shorter in length but still provide the same benefits as those older heavier fabrics. However, there are still several overcoats made with heavy weight fabrics that are very practical and stylish.
Modern overcoats are typically more stylish and versatile than they were back in the day. Overcoats used to be much more utilitarian than their modern counterpart and had to really withstand tough weather and conditions so not much attention was paid towards the style.
The Trench Coat
Like an overcoat, a trench coat is an outerwear designed to withstand inclement weather However, they are designed more for rainy weather as compared to the overcoat which is designed for colder weather.
The trench coat is a more recent addition to the menswear line up and dates back as early as the 1850s designed by the Burberry and Aquascutum brands.
Trench coats began as military wear. As such, they tend to have a formal look about them, while being generally neutral enough in color to use as camouflage.
They started out made from gabardine, a relatively new fabric at the time. They often had large pockets for maps and other military essentials, a D-ring on the belt, and shoulder straps.
Trench coats have in fact become luxury raincoats. They look much more formal and stylish than most raincoats. Cheap rubber and plastic raincoats have become the norm today and generally do not fit in well with anything stylish and tasteful. So, the trench coat is the way to go.
Like the overcoat, modern trench coats have changed somewhat from their historic counterpart. Historically, trench coats were typically longer than they are today and of a heavier fabric.
The advent of synthetic fabrics has helped to inject more variety into this style. They may also come in various colors aside from the traditional neutral tones for which they are most famous for.
Fit And Shopping Tips
If you actually intend to wear your overcoat over a suit, you should wear a suit when shopping for one and try the coat on over it. This is the only way to know if it is actually roomy enough. Otherwise, you bare the risk of getting something too small.
Longer coats are more expensive and more formal. If you want to dress to impress, a mid-calf length coat can give you the formal look you desire without being so long, looking like something out of a museum.
Make sure the coat fully closes over the suit in question. Go ahead and button it all up, belt it and so forth. Don't just assume it will work.
If you do get a belted coat, the belt needs to sit at the narrowest part of your waist. If it doesn't, it will tend to ride up or otherwise sit funny, especially if you wear it for long periods. of time.
Many winter coats and trench coats come with detachable linings. This can help extend their use to three seasons. Otherwise, they only make sense in the coldest months.
If you aren't extremely confident of your taste in fashion, ask a friend or relative with good taste to go with you. This is a major wardrobe piece and will most likely last you a lifetime. You want to make sure it looks good, fits well and serves your needs adequately.
Since it is a garment that can last for years, you should consider the price tag in light of that. A good coat isn't cheap, but the price tag may be easier to swallow if you think of it in terms of an investment and how much use you will get out of it.
Trench coats are usually somewhat less expensive than overcoats so you might consider purchasing two of them. If so, consider different lengths and different colors to give yourself the most variety.
Remember that it's okay to have fun with fashion. So enjoy it!
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