We cringe every time a person confuses a made to measure suit with a bespoke or custom suit. Not everyone knows the differences between menswear options. Many people today use the word bespoke whenever they speak about a made-to-measure product: from a suit to curtains. This is incorrect. Bespoke, made to measure, and custom suits all have different characteristics that make them unique. Pay attention to the type of pattern used for the garment, the number of fittings, and fabric options when determining which style suit you are getting. We are here so you never have a slip of the tongue again and know the difference.
Off the Rack Suits
Firstly, before we dive into custom, tailor made, and bespoke suits, you should understand the term ‘off the rack’. At its most basic, this term means the suit is purchased “as is” from the hangers. They may not be totally one fits all but they have standard sizes. From here, a tailor can then alter the garment so that it fits better. This might mean taking in the pants or letting them out, shortening sleeve lengths and more. Off the rack means you get what you get in terms of the fabric and style of the suit. You can only change minor aspects of the fit.
Made to Measure Suits
A made to measure suit is made from a basic or standard pattern. From here, a tailor takes your measurements and adapts the pattern to you. You do not have many fabric options for a made to measure suit, potentially just a handful. It is not common for there to be numerous fittings. Once the tailor has your measurements, they get to work. The finished garment should fit your height and basic shape, but it will not be 100% specific to your body. And of course, you can always add things like shoulder pads, accessories, etc. This suit option is more expensive than off the rack options, but much less expensive than a custom suit or bespoke suit.
Custom Suits
Custom suits are made with you in mind. A tailor takes a series of measurements and will create a pattern for you. Everything from the slope of your shoulders and hips to the length of your legs will be considered in creating this custom suit. These suits are more expensive than made-to-measure suits because your specific frame and preferences were used to create the pattern. You can choose the fabric for a custom suit and have many more options than a made to measure suit. Fabric is of course always a deciding factor when it comes to determining the cost of the suit.
Bespoke Suits
Bespoke suits are the most expensive because they require the most expertise and hand construction. Bespoke is a British word which means “spoken for.” These suits may have more than 1,000 hand stitches just in the lapel. A bespoke suit is fitted so that it hugs the body and never has to be pressed. They are considered the high-end of the suit world
Tailors in the bespoke world have decades of experience. They create a new pattern every single time they make a suit. The expert would never reuse or even revise a previous pattern. The point of a bespoke suit is that it is original and adapts to the specific nuances of the person’s body. The tailor considers everything from the arch of the back and shape of the leg to traditional measurements.
Bespoke tailors have many fittings over the course of two months as the garment is created. The tailor wants to make sure the garment fits the clients vision and that the fit is as precise as possible.
When it comes to fabric, the sky is the limit with a bespoke suit! You can have nearly any type of fabric in any color or pattern. In fact, expert tailors could refer to their fabric selection as a library since they work with so many mills and suppliers. There is no limit on the complexity of a bespoke suit. You can have complex lapels, luxurious linings and more.
Bespoke tailors want to create relationships with their clients. After all, you are meeting one on one with the tailor so they can understand your vision for this suit. They are the person cutting the fabric, doing the stitchwork and more. Nothing is outsourced when it comes to a bespoke garment.
Thus, how the suit is made and the level of specificity dictate not only the type of suit it is but its cost. The more options you have, the more expensive the suit is. Consider if the pattern is a standard one or something made with you in mind. Custom suits and bespoke suits cost the most because you have more control over the garment's design. Off the rack and made to measure suits are less expensive because they are made with a standard pattern and not as specific to you. A bespoke suit is the most specific; it is made with your exact fit and style in mind, which is why it is so expensive. Knowing your options means that you can make smart decisions about your next suit purchase. And of course, you can admire the craftsmanship of bespoke garments, which are made with the highest level of expertise.
