Whether you're in the market for your first suit, adding to your closet, or an eligible bachelor like the ones listed on our friend Nick Grays blog, we’re here to help you out. Regardless of your situation, there comes a time when we all have to throw one on, we just prefer to more often. Most importantly, no matter the setting, we want to ensure you look sharp.
When deciding on custom or off the rack, a few important factors to consider are the quality of the material and the cut of the fabric, the fit, and the construction of the garment (inside and out). Different designers will vary on both of these points, but to keep you at your best, you need some combination of the two. The best fabric in the world is going to look shitty if it's not cut and made right, and cheap fabric will always look cheap no matter the make. If you have to choose only one aspect, we would suggest focusing on the fabric (it will last longer, be more comfortable, and look much better).
BLAZER/SPORTCOAT
Probably the most casual type of suit jacket, and incredibly versatile. You can pair this with anything from jeans (think: bar hopping in NYC) to linen slacks (think: Italian Riviera). It's also a great piece to keep in your office (just in case the c-suite is in town or there's a last minute meeting). You can also go bolder with color, patterns, etc. and have a bit more fun with what you're putting together.
As far as styling goes, we'd recommend starting with a traditional navy blazer as it is the most versatile color. You can literally wear it with ANYTHING! Opt for a fabric that has a little bit of texture like a hopsack or birds-eye pattern to give it more character. Once you have your navy (and maybe grey) staple, it’s time to have more fun with your wardrobe (see photo above).
Fun Fact: There are several claimed origins of the blazer, but the one that holds the most credit is said to have originated from the bright red ‘blazing’ jackets worn by the St. John’s College (Cambridge) rowing team in the 1820’s.
SINGLE BREASTED SUIT
If you own only one suit, it should be a nice single-breasted navy blue suit (matching pants and jacket). This style has a single row of buttons down the front, typically 2, but 3 is OK if you're trying to bring back the 90’s (we don’t recommend it). The 2 button suit is timeless and will never go out of style.
The single-breasted suit is probably the most popular, as it's perfect for most occasions (or your every day look good feel good attire - el Jefe has been spotted at taco joints in this). It is a great option, and we're willing to bet you'll never be underdressed.
There are two lapel options we recommend for a single breasted suit.
The Notch Lapel - This style is great if you’re looking to keep it classic and traditional. The name of the design refers to the notch where the lapel and collar meet (this area is also called the gorge).
2. The Peak Lapel - This style is a little more elegant and formal. The lapel comes to a point (like the peak of a mountain) where it meets the collar. This style is our personal favorite.
DOUBLE-BREASTED SUIT
The double-breasted suit is similar to the single-breasted but has two columns of buttons and the front panels overlap. This can give the illusion of a wider frame around the chest, ribcage, and abdomen as it draws the eyes outward. Though this style has been a little outdated (unless you're a cartel lawyer or the Monopoly Man), we think it is making a comeback. With the proper fabric and cut it can be extremely stylish (think: Colin Firth in Kingsman), especially when getting into a bar fight in London.
As far as lapel style, we always recommend the peak lapel for a double breasted suit. The pinstripe suit above is probably the most classic and bold option out there (think: Leonardo DiCaprio in The Wolf of Wall Street).
DINNER JACKET/TUXEDO
There are dinner jackets and there are dinner jackets, we’re here to ensure you have the latter. The venues are probably less frequent - weddings, charity ball, dinner with the Queen, but all require a certain level of formality. For these occasions, it's always good to have your own tux. Rentals never quite fit right and the material is lackluster. You end up looking more like a waiter or ready high school prom (we don’t want you to be that guy). In addition to the notch and peak lapel, the shawl collar comes into play with a dinner suit. The tuxedo is also, a good opportunity to take risks with the fabric. Ultimately, we want you looking good and feeling confident
For a take on the classic, may we suggest…Bond, James Bond: This midnight blue tuxedo is, in our opinion, the classiest option out there. I mean, how can you argue with James Bond? The rounded shawl lapel speaks elegance and style.
Fun Fact: The tuxedo (originally the dinner suit) received its name after James Potter wore this, at the time, new style of suiting to the famous Tuxedo Park country club.
Cheers & Dress Responsibly,
B.C. Short
Lifestyle Editor
