I've always felt a deep connection to watches. Yes, I understand you do not need one and there are many ways to get the time easily and accurately, but I guess I'm analog. I'm not a jewelry guy, other than my wedding ring, the occasional pair of cuff links, and a watch. Despite my aversion to jewelry, not wearing a watch feels incomplete somehow, like I've left the house without my wallet (also something you may not need very soon).
There is nothing logical about buying a watch, or parting ways with thousands (or more) on this borderline obsession, and it's easier than you might think to go down the rabbit hole of amassing a ticking drawer. However, like a well-made suit, there are elements of function, style, quality, and most importantly, how they make you feel, that make them special.
How a particular piece speaks to you, projects something about yourself, sparks memories, marks an event, is something you and potentially future generations will appreciate long after you've forgotten what you paid for it.
Today, I thought it would be a good exercise to talk about some of my "collection" and solicit some of your stories. Why are they special to you? How do they make you feel? Why do you love them? What's on your grail list? Do you have a good watch story? Comment below.
The Vacheron Constantin
I'll start with my grandfather's Vacheron Constantin K1002 (pictured above). I wish I knew more about when/how/where my grandfather acquired it (retirement? anniversary? passing by a shop window?), but for years growing up it sat in a box at the bottom of my father's nightstand.
Every now and then I would rummage through it and couldn't help being drawn in. At the time, it had a gold bracelet with my grandfathers initials engraved on it (also my initials), and while the watch itself was beautiful and I loved staring at it, hypnotized by simplicity, there was a deeper connection to a legacy. I can't remember seeing my father ever wear it.
I suspect he felt it was too valuable for him to enjoy it on his wrist, but I have a feeling he shared the same feelings about it as I do. When my father passed, it was left to me. The memories of going through his box of valuables with him rush back and I share that connection with both of them.
These days, it mostly sits on my desk as an "office clock", where I get to admire its uncluttered beauty, and hopefully channel some of the magic that helped both men build their businesses. When I do wear it, it's almost always with a blazer/sportcoat and trousers. If you see it on my wrist, you and/or your occasion, are important to me.
A few years ago, my aunt had the watch serviced and the dial cleaned up a bit (thankfully not polished, but still sacrilege to some), but I thought they did a great job and I love the results.
When she gave it back, she said two things. 1) I could've bought a new watch, and 2) if I ever needed to sell it, make sure I get a good price. Not sure she fully understands how priceless it is to me. It still keeps excellent time and is hopefully something the next generation can enjoy.
My First Omega
My first "real watch" was an Omega Seamaster Professional 300 2254.50 (pictured above). I was visiting family in Taipei just before senior year of high school. At the time, I had a Seiko diver that my cousin had been admiring, so long story short, I ended up giving it to him.
My aunt (different from the one above) asked me what happened to my watch, I guess she also noticed that I would always wear one. I told her I gave it to my cousin. Anyhow, a few days later when we were in Hong Kong, she replaced the Seiko with an Omega as an early graduation present. I was absolutely floored (still am).
That watch saw me through high school, college, travels across 3 continents, my first job, meeting my wife. So much life happened with the Omega as my daily companion, and I've only grown more fond of it over time.
The sword hands for example I don't think would have been my first choice, but have really aged well and I appreciate more now. The blue also has a great shimmer which I'm more drawn to. Most of all, it carries a lot of great memories and reminds me of her generosity, and to try to do the same.
It's seen some action over the years, partly because it can be worn in just about any setting and mostly because it had to (it was my only watch for a long time besides the Vacheron). The bezel is scratched, the case has dings, the bracelet has worn flat in spots from extensive desk diving.
I've been offered to have it refurbished but I can't bring myself to do it, the memories live in the imperfections. Also, it feels like an old Land Rover in a way - if it were pristine it would somehow look worse to me, showing the scars of a life well lived. True to form for a sporty dive/tool watch.
Incredibly, the watch has only been serviced twice in the last 16 years and has been bulletproof. I still keep it in regular rotation, especially near water.
The Speedmaster
Given my soft spot for the Seamaster, and Omega in general, the Speedmaster was always a watch I had aspired to. The proportions, design, and functionality of it always seemed to be the archetype of a well built chronograph. When you add the pedigree of its connection to racing and NASA, it always possessed a big cool factor to me.
If I ever had any shot at a one watch collection, this would be it. (Ben Clymer contends that every watch enthusiast should own one at some point and I'd have to agree).
A few months after I got married and was in my first management job, my wife and I had a conversation about how it's important to mark life's milestones (she got an engagement ring after all), so I got the blessing and started shopping. From there, the decisions were endless - as expected of a model that has been produced for 60ish years in one form or another.
In the end, I ended up with a Speedmaster Professional 3572.50 - the "Hesalite Sandwich." I'll keep it brief but go into a few reasons. I didn't go vintage as I wanted to wear it without having a panic attack (prices had been in a very upward trajectory).
I actually scraped the face against a wall in my office the first week because I'm very graceful (polishing that out of the plexi was fun). The base level finishing in the more contemporary models used a delrin brake while only the luxury finishes had this component in metal, which usually only come on the sapphire backed models.
Most of these also have sapphire on the front, which replaced the hesalite crystal in the front. Speedmasters that were flight certified by NASA used hesalite in the event they shattered in space, there wouldn't be floating through the spacecraft.
Anyhow, the hesalite felt more traditional and warmer somehow, but I still wanted to be able to admire the movement and watch the Chrono engage, so I ended up with this particular Speedy.
I doubt this will be the most collectible watch as time passes, though it was only produced for a few years, but it ticks most of my boxes, and I love it.
I wear it most days to the office (though it might be a while given our current situation), and is also the most helpful (if not overpriced) kitchen timer. It's the only manual watch I own. I love the ritual of winding it, and the crisp feeling of snapping the chronograph into gear.
It reminds me of both a special time in my life, of working hard and pressing on, and the beauty and importance of precision, in both the watch and life.
The "Franken" Rolex
The next watch is actually a "Franken" Rolex Milgauss in an Explorer case I decided to build in quarantine. It's been on my wrist most of the time these days for two main reasons. One, I broke the winding stem and I'm waiting on a new one from Switzerland, so I cannot set the time. Two, I wanted to see how accurate it is (happy to report it is so far).
Oddly enough, I've never been a Rolex fanatic (haven't obsessed over the minutiae of serial numbers, dial fonts, etc. yet), but there's something very classic yet quirky about the Milgauss. Aside from the animated seconds hand (my wife thought it was a nod to Harry Potter), these were tool built watches for scientists that work in environments with high levels of magnetism.
Magnetism ruins mechanical watches (you can read more at HODINKEE HodinkeeWeb resultsIn-Depth: A Rolex Milgauss, An Omega >15000 Gauss, And A 4000 Gauss ... ) so Rolex designed the Milgauss (capable of resisting 1000 gauss).
Given the limited target audience, these were never as popular compared to Rolex's other stablemates (Submariner, Daytona, Day-Date, etc.), rumor has it AD's would give them away to help sweeten other watch purchases. I guess part of me always has a soft spot for the underdog (I like the Explorer II's as well).
Anyhow, I had been contemplating a project watch for some time and figured this would be a good excuse to stay inside and keep from watching everything on Netflix.
What a humbling experience. To give you a brief highlight reel: I scratched the hands, bent the minute hand slightly, scuffed the face, busted the keyless works, disassembled, reassembled, lost a screw, spent hours scanning my office floor, got it all back together, dropped it (graceful), ordered a new screw, reassembled, dropped it again, glued the 6 marker back, reassembled...
I have a new found appreciation for watchmakers or anyone who can service a watch (it is very easy to cock up).
Seeing/stripping down even a simple time only movement, you get a sense of how incredible they are. As you get into some of the more elaborate functions and higher levels of finishing, it's nothing short of astonishing. Add to that those who are able to conceptualize and execute a new design leaves me speechless.
I've come to the sad realization that my hands are not that steady (I've heard the trick is whiskey, so maybe another bottle and project in the future). If you've ever thought about a watch build, I cannot give a bigger endorsement.
It will be frustrating, but even if you use a cheap movement (I would recommend doing so), it teaches you a lot and I doubt you'll ever look at a timepiece the same way.
The final product itself is comfy enough and I like the aesthetics. What I feel above all when I look at it is a sense of pride that I was able to get everything put together (mostly). Yes, there are signs (a lot of them) that unskilled hands were responsible, but I love it because it was a pain in the ass. It might be a good excuse to update this one or start a new project.
The Ulysse Nardin
The last watch I'll cover I don't consider to be mine anymore, my wife wears it most of the time. Years ago I stumbled across a vintage Ulysse Nardin Chronometró signed Cuervo y Sobrinos. The individual who sold it was cleaning out his late uncle's possessions after he passed and found the watch (there were a few others).
Story goes his uncle was stationed in Cuba in the 50's and he bought the watch when he was down there.
We had a contact at UN in NYC and I asked him whether he thought this was genuine (I was surprised/hesitant that is was priced so low). He let me know that UN had produced watches for Cuervo y Sobrinos, a high-end jeweler in LATAM similar to Tiffany's and there are a few of these double signed examples floating around from the pre-embargo era.
Ulysse Nardin has made some incredible pieces since (if you've never seen a Freak in person, you need to click here) and Cuervo y Sobrinos has since rebooted their own line of watches, so it seemed like the Chronometró had an interesting back story in addition to its looks, a solid movement and ties to two brands I'm fond of.
I decided to pull the trigger. When it arrived, admittedly it felt a little small, my wife tried it on and fell in love. It frankly looks much better on her. I let her pick out a strap and it's been hers ever since. It was her first foray into a quality timepiece and I think she has a watch list of her own now (I know a Cartier Tank and her moms lost Rolex are on the short list).
More than that, I'm happy that she seems to enjoy it and that she doesn't hate my taste. She's not as crazy as I am, but I'm glad we share this interest and appreciation. We recently got into a debate as she was looking at an Hermés Apple Watch - I said at the price point/premium for it over the regular model, she might as well start saving for the real (anolog) Hermés watch lineup.
I think she'll probably be wearing the UN long after software updates make the current Apple Watch useless, but we'll see. She didn't buy the Hermés. Yet.
That's the drawer for now, it's clear I have a problem. Not sure what's next on the list, GMT? Rattrapante? Perpetual Calendar? Hopefully the current stable is enough to keep me occupied for a bit. There is so much to appreciate from living with them and details only you can enjoy. The only real criteria is that whatever the piece, it is special to you.
Cheers,
B.C. Short
Lifestyle Editor
